Mount Siyeh
Elevation 10,014'
An excellent climb in Glacier National Park!
August 7 2023

48.7286°N / 113.6497°W

Mount Siyeh is located in Montana’s Glacier National Park, and is the fifth tallest peak in the park. It is also noteworthy because of its north face being one of the highest cliff faces in lower 48. The standard route climbs the southern slopes of the peak. Start at the Piegan Pass trailhead on Going to the Sun Road, located not far east of Logan Pass.


John, Michael, and I scored a campsite at Apgar CG the night before, which put us in position to grab a parking spot at the popular trailhead.


The early section of trail was very pleasant.


Once in Preston Park, we took a less traveled climbers trail toward the south face of Siyeh.


The route got steep in a hurry as we climbed talus slopes to the base of the cliffs.


There was some occasional route finding on the way up through the cliffs, including this scramble section that John led us up.


Here Michael contours abound a ledge, with great views to the south behind him, including Mount Jackson.


We passed through several sections like this on the way up through the cliff bands. The way wasn't always obvious, which made for some fun route-finding.


Once above the cliff bands, it was time for a scenic snack break. Great views of the Siyeh Creek drainage below, and rugged GNP peaks in the background.


Michael really enjoyed the talus section above the cliff bands. This area is known for grizzly sightings, but we only saw some scat. Matahpi Peak in the background.


Here's final summit ridge, above the talus slopes.


John and Michael at the base of the summit ridge. Love those views!


Group shot on the summit.


The massive drop over the north face is enough to make your knees wobble. Michael approaches with caution.


The summit made for an incredible setting for a snack break.


John peering over at Cracker Lake, from the summit of Mount Siyeh.


Glacial blue waters of Cracker Lake.


Mount Gould highlighted the view to the west, with Upper Grinnell Lake above the cliffs to its north.


On the way back down, we did our best to retrace our route, but that was easier said than done.


Map of our route. Round trip was about 10 miles and 4100' of elevation gain. It took us just under 8 hours.

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